Venturing Into: Cali - The Capital of Salsa

Highlights

- Dance classes are cheap and easy to find

- Salsa clubs and shows are spectacular and very affordable

- The city has a party vibe, street parties are not hard to find, though will charge entry

- Several parts of the city are safe to explore on foot

Lowlights

- Cali is a huge city and there is a lot to do so if you're there for a short amount of time and want to see it all then you'll need to maximise your time and be as efficient as you can to see and do everything 

Commentary

Cali is our favourite of the places we've visited in Colombia so far so (spoilers alert) this will be a pretty overwhelmingly positive review. In short, if you're considering going to Colombia you simply must put Cali on your itinerary. 

Known as the capital of salsa it certainly lives up to the reputation. Salsa and various other related dance forms are quite literally painted all over this city and very much form the fabric of identity of Cali. All over town there are murals, salsa bars, schools and street art dedicated to dance. Although there are many other very good reasons to visit Cali which we will touch on later, salsa is very much #1 on the list.

We picked a hostel which offers free group salsa classes in the evenings & private classes for 60k COP (around £12) and this isn't hard to find at others even cheaper. English speaking instructors are easy to find although I would encourage use of a Spanish speaking instructor as the physical nature of dancing means a language barrier isn't that big of a deal (as they can simply demonstrate what they mean) and you'll likely pick up a few words.

The most common dance lessons you'll find are salsa and bachata, although others are also dotted around here and there. Bachata is a more sensual form of salsa, a slightly different rhythm and is very much suited to those who don't mind PDA, showmanship and don't embarrass easily. We tried both salsa and bachata, Savannah preferred salsa, while I very much enjoyed bachata. I would argue bachata was easier to learn superficially, the basic steps really are quite simple which allows a beginner to put their feet on autopilot and affords more brain power available for co-ordinating the rest of the body. This is pretty essential as bachata is designed to be danced as a pair and as such involves more turns, spins, so as a man (the lead dancer) what you do with your hands conducts the whole thing. I think it's possibly easier to get to a level of competency with bachata that gives you a feeling of accomplishment (even if it's only basic). But beware if you're not so comfortable getting touchy feely with someone in public this probably isn't for you. That's not to say you'll be touching anything untoward or getting nose to nose with your partner but let's just say there is a lot more 'flourish'. 

My personal recommendation is to start off with a group class and then head out that night to a salsa bar or club to practice whilst it's still fresh. Repetition is key. Use private or group lessons to learn a specific set of steps or skills then practice, practice, practice in your evenings whilst watching experts twirl, their feet mere blurs as they tap away rapidly. For this Cali is perfectly suited, you could try a different place every night for weeks and not feel like you've covered it all.

In addition to the bars and clubs are the cabaret shows. The visit to a cabaret was the highlight of our time in Cali, everything all in one for only 20k COP (£4) entry! Our particular venue was called El Mulato and we can't recommend it enough. For the price of a half pint in London we got one of the best shows I've ever seen. The venue is shaped a little like a West End theatre - if the floor seating was replaced by a large dance floor with sofas and tables surrounding it. Above this was a large balcony with tiered seating and open spaces everywhere. The night began with the downstairs floor area being free for any to jump on and strut their moves. People of all ages took advantage of this opportunity, showing off a variety of dance styles to the music on offer. Dotted around the floor are a few professionals in glitzy outfits making themselves available to anyone who wanted to join them for a song. This led to our first realisation: Much like in football, the flashier the get-up, the more skillful the dancer (or at least the more skilful they believed themselves to be). There was no shortage of sequins, shiny suits, flared pants, bare chests & tasseled dresses - and people who knew exactly what to do with them. Some of the professionals made their way upstairs and invited everyone to join them in a simple group routine shuffling forwards, backwards and side to side - the upstairs section was filled entirely with gringos so simple was best! 

Eventually the show begins where some of the professionals join the house dance troupe in a fantastic show of salsa, acrobatics and a showcase of the professional's talents in a variety of dance forms in a third act montage which made us whoop and cheer in awe. Towards the end of the show the pros all made their way onto the dance floor and invited whom they liked from the audience to join them. The downstairs section is seemingly much like the front row of a comedy show, expect to be picked on so be prepared!

What if I'm not into Salsa?

There's plenty more Cali has to offer if you're not keen on dancing. Being a large city, it has all the usual amenities such as large shopping malls, nice restaurants and enough bars and nightclubs to keep you entertained for a week or two. It even has a Hooters restaurant, much to our surprise, so if you've had your full of the Latino food and have a hankering for spicy wings as I did, you have options! 

The bohemian part of the city is called San Antonio and is the most touristy section. Here you'll find a plethora of restaurants, street art and an artesanal market selling jewellery, clothing, food and souvenirs. It's safe to walk around in San Antonio, and the food is fantastic. We recommend find menu del día in as many different places as possible - some of the best food of our trip we found doing this. You find plenty of fellow tourists in San Antonio and many hostels to accommodate. The most popular hostel is probably Viajero (part of a chain of hostels across south America) and with good reason. We spent out first 3 nights here and as well as free group salsa classes they ran events every day such as a BBQ with live music, party bus, street party and walking tours. This was a party hostel with music always playing in the main area, however not unbearable for those looking to relax with another section dedicated to quiet and hammocks provided. The social aspect is undoubtedly the best - you'll find other tourists here with ideas beyond the hostel itinerary and potential friends with which you can head into town for safety. 

San Antonio is not the only area of the city safe to walk around in. We also explored Granada and Miraflores, though these probably shouldn't be explored by foot after 9pm or so. These areas aren't as pretty or as touristy but have plenty to offer with a more local feel in bakeries, diners and the famous Alameda food market. 

Much like Rio de Janeiro, towering over the city is a giant statue of Christ and three large crosses which present a somewhat challenging hike for those interested in a panoramic view of the city. There is also a hike to a nearby river where locals go to bathe and refresh from the heat. Beyond this we know very little about them as we did neither of these hikes, instead choosing to relax, dance and eat. 

Cali has a little of everything to offer visitors and you'll likely come away with fantastic memories, new friends, new moves and a new appreciation for the afro influence on Colombian culture. With 30% of the population being of African descent Cali has the second most Afro inhabitants in all of South America and their influence is felt throughout. We recommend a walking tour to learn more about this influence over the years. Needless to say, it extends beyond the music and dance that has characterised the city.

CALI AT A GLANCE

Accommodation

Being a large city you'll always find a bed even last minute (as we did) and affordably. The best places and private rooms sell out early, especially those with air conditioning which, although not essential (if you have an electric fan atleast), is still pretty high on the priority list for us.

Transport

Cali is a local hub and capital city for the district so it's well connected by local buses. Uber is available here and much cheaper than the yellow taxis. There is also an intentional airport which connects to most national airports. A private taxi or Uber between the city and the airport costs roughly 60,000 COP (£12). 

Affordability 

More expensive in general than the smaller towns, but not expensive per se, expect to pay more like 30k COP for a meal but cheaper alternatives such as local diners and fast food eateries are cheaper. Menu del día will save you half of that money and is very large and filling with 2-3 courses, usually soup, salad and a protein with rice. Accomodation cost is based on how comfy you want to feel, a dorm room is easy and cheap to find but won't have air conditioning.

Safety

The San Antonio, Granada and Miraflores neighbourhoods are safe to walk during the day. San Antonio is also quite safe at night though safety in numbers is true as always. We had no issues anywhere we went in these areas. There are other parts of the city you shouldn't go to alone or at all but we stuck to these 3 neighbourhoods.

Activities

Dancing clubs, lessons and shows are the highlights. Food options are many and delicious, there are many bars and nightclubs. The city in general is party central and can be done as cheap as you want to, entirely possible to spend very little and have a fantastic time.